SS16

LDN FASHION WEEK SS16 HIGHLIGHTS [3]

Jonathan Saunders

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Johnathan Saunders attended the Glasgow School of Art and Central Saint Martins where he graduated with an MA in Printed Textiles in 2002 that won him the Lancome Colour Award. In 2006 he was awarded the Fashion Enterprise Award at the British Fashion Awards. He has worked previously with Alexander McQueen, Christian Lacroix at Pucci and Pheobe Philo at Chloe.
This collection just screams summer, am I right? I love these looks. Saunder’s designs range from light and sexy summer dresses to strong structured outerwear, but all with the most delectable colours and heavy island print. I personally adore tropical colours the oranges and yellows trump pinks and reds anyday and this pallette just has me wanting to book my next trip to the land of sea and sand. Also, I have a lot of time for the diversity in this show – still a key issue in the industry today.

Topshop Unique

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Everybody’s favourite store. Launched in 2001, and now in its twenty-third season, Unique showcases Topshop’s own design talents on the international stage.
If I’m honest, I’m not always a fan of Topshop’s shows at LFW. I feel the pieces lack some consistency and too much variation struggles to keep brand on point. The images I’ve selected above do not represent what the majority of the collection looked like. There were actually a lot of light, 70’s boho dresses and polkadots. But, Topshop appeals to the masses and stays on trend, so it stays in the highlights. As I’m currently on the hunt for the perfect blazer, I found these looks quite inspiring – the mix in fabrics adds new persona to a garment usually pinned to the office.

Temperley London

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It’s the 15th year of business for Temperley London, with its founder, namesake and Creative Director Alice Temperley, MBE heading up the independent British luxury brand. British fashion. The world of Temperley houses two lines; Temperley London and Temperley Bridal and holds one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary British fashion. Described as a feminine, effortless and timeless designer collection which stays true to its British Heritage.

Temperley London’s SS16 collections holds some truly beautiful pieces. The eveningwear is old school Hollywood and hands down stunning. The combination of sheer fabrics, print and textures is unexpected but each piece just as creative and pioneering as the last. Temperley, for me, has taken prints such as what I’d expect to find on my mum’s favourite China and turned it into an ethereal masterpiece. And doesn’t the dress on the right look like it belongs to Michelle Pfeiffer’s character, Elvira Hancock, in movie Scarface? Both Pfeiffer and her wardrobe were unreal in that film – if you haven’t seen it, watch it. If you’re not good with gore, google her character for a more PG and brief overview.

Paul Smith

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Paul Smith has grown from its origins in one small shop in Nottingham, England, in 1970, into a global business, selling to five continents. Starting with one men’s collection, the business has grown to 12 collections for men and women and children, including, shoes,accessories, fragrance, home furnishings and jeans.
The tailored cuts, colour blocking and fluid silhouettes. Everything is just on point. Capsuling effortlessly cool and modernity in one swift swoop. Thank you Paul Smith. And I’ll take those shoes in all three colours, thanks.

Pringle of Scotland

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Pringle of Scotland was founded in 1815 at the birthplace of the Scottish knitwear industry.
Simple and oversized, white, beige and gold and meshed fabrics. Again hitting the nail on the head and inspires some fun new ways to wear knitwear as outerwear.

Burberry

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We all know and love Burberry, being British, we have to right? Christopher Bailey joined as Design Director in May 2001 and from the outset his creative vision was applied to all aspects of the brand. Prior to his appointment at Burberry, Christopher was the Senior Designer of Womenswear at Gucci in Milan from 1996 to 2001. From 1994 to 1996 he was the Womenswear Designer at Donna Karan.

We all love a little Goth, don’t we? These looks, pictured above, spoke to me the most. In London there is very much this attitude that all black everything is the way forward. And I very much agree. The lace and puffed sleeves were done right in this collection and I’m happy to see caged heels could be making a comeback.

Christopher Kane

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While completing his MA in fashion design at Central Saint Martins College, Christopher Kane realised his defining ambition was to start his own label in partnership with his elder sister, Tammy Kane. Christopher Kane, the label, started in 2006. It was begun almost immediately after Kane’s graduation, capitalising on the success of his award winning MA collection that had gathered much media attention.
Honestly, of all the shows and presentations I’ve seen at LFW SS16, this one had me at hel-fucking-lo. I struggled to settle on three looks to pop in the top spot. The sporty polo crop top, the boyfriend fit jumpsuit, the backpack, the contrast of champagne and mint green – this is the collection of my dreams. The colours are so rich and designs strikingly current without the distaste of trying too hard. Exquisite.
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LDN FASHION WEEK SS16 HIGHLIGHTS [2]

JULIEN MACDONALD

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Julien Macdonald OBE first studied fashion knitwear at the University of Brighton and received his MA at Royal College of Art, London. His talent caught the attention of the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and was appointed head designer of knitwear for Chanel, as well as for the eponymous label Lagerfeld, from 1996 to 1998. His unique gowns have been worn by the likes of Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Joan Smalls and Kristen Stewart.

This collection boasts bewitchingly intricate detail and a dramatic aura us lesser mortals could only dream of. Not really items that the everyday girl is going to possess, but deserves a spot in the highlights because of the sheer beauty of these pieces.

SIBLING

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SIBLING is a collaboration between Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. Collectively as SIBLING they have worked with: Smiley, Swarovski, Barbie, Fashionary, G shock, Cassette Playa, Lulu & Co, Oxbow, Tween, Fred Perry, Topman and PUMA.

The more I look at this collection the more I love it. The eclectic mix of fabrics and next to nakedness of the models converts these fun designs to racy and eye-catching looks with a 90’s vibe. Aside from the clothes, the hair and make up on these models was spot on and I am LOVING the sporty socks and classic heels combo.

1205

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Paula Gerbase, my Queen. She studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins, then trained in the womenswear atelier, Hardy Amies, followed by 5 years as Head Designer for Savile Row tailor, Kilgour.
I’ve expressed how I feel about clean cut, nude palettes and androgynous fashion and this is just perfection. The tailoring and asymmetric hem lines are simplistic, yet exude power and portray a strong female presence. Also, the pairing with the white trainers – my favourite look of this season.

SIMONE ROCHA

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Simone Rocha graduated with a BA in Fashion from The National College of Art and Design in Dublin in 2008 continuing in 2010 to graduate from the acclaimed Fashion MA at Central Saint Martin’s College, London. Simone debuted at London Fashion Week in September 2010. Her collections have gained her some of the most prestigious stockists in the world including Dover Street Market, Browns, Colette in Paris and Bergdorf Goodman.

Now, whilst dusky pinks and more feminine designs are not really my style, I felt it necessary to include a couple of her pieces in my highlights. There was some speculation over the ‘rope’ detail crossed over some of her designs and I felt her frilly dresses were a little too house on the prairie for me. But I loved the utility take on a few of her designs, which set the collection aside from other shows and presentations to date and added an edge to an otherwise ethereal show.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Graduate from the London College of Printing with a BA Journalism, Henry Holland, has stated that he designs with a London girl aesthetic in mind, and taking into account the multicultural diversity of the city, is continually inspired by the variety of attitudes, cultures and mind-sets that exist throughout the capital.

This collection demands the attention and oozes effortlessly cool – Henry hits the nail on the head with encompassing the globally recognised, London style. The bold contrast in patterns and loud colours screams confidence and the sporty details bring a modern twist on definitive cultural print.

LDN FASHION WEEK SS16 HIGHLIGHTS [1]

London Fashion Week is upon us once again. But this time it has a brand new look, and I’m not talking about the new collections but the new location. The British Fashion Council have moved the event to Brewer Street Car Park in Soho rather than Somerset House – LFW’s humble abode for the last five years. BFC’s CEO Caroline Rush explains that, “It ticks all the boxes of being walking distance to many of the magazines and department store head offices; it’s really connected to Oxford Street and the high-street stores that the UK is so well known for; and it’s not far from Mount Street, where we have all the stars of fashion week starting to open their stores”.

Passing by Soho yesterday there was definitely a new vibe in the area. A place that is usually buzzing with tourists was silent and serious. You could literally feel the suspense in the air around LFW’s new venue. A flurry of photographers and handful of incredibly well dressed individuals propped against the street corners of central Soho, generating a mild murmur in anticipation of the day ahead.

Unfortunately, I was only passing through on a shopping trip – treating myself, as per. So I’ve only been watching from the outside – which thanks to digital media – doesn’t really feel like the outside anymore.

Here’s my favourites from Friday 18th September:

J J.S LEE

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Jackie Lee was born in Seoul, Korea and spent five years working as a Senior Pattern Cutter in Seoul and two years at KISA London as Master Pattern Cutter. In March 2010, she launched her label, J. JS LEE. For her first collection after college, she received NEWGEN sponsorship for SS11 in the exhibition space alongside many established London labels.

Stripes are timeless and these pieces are flawless. I’ve always turned to this pattern for a more dressed down look but J J.S Lee has demonstrated a light and effortless elegance in her collection.

BORA AKSU

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London based Turkish designer Bora Aksu graduated from Central St Martin’s MA in 2002. Aksu was hailed as ‘the star of the show’ by The Daily Telegraph, The Guardian and The Independent, and also attracted the eye of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna who purchased pieces to use as inspiration.

These two dresses alone exemplify why Bora Aksu held such high recognition amongst national papers and other designs. The detail and structure of these pieces are to die for and exude strength and power.

Eudon Choi

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Before moving to London to attend the Royal College of Arts, Eudon Choi was trained as a menswear designer in Seoul, Korea where he acquired an in-depth knowledge of tailoring techniques and a great eye for detail. Eudon worked as a womenswear designer for a few years before setting up his eponymous label in 2009
Simplicity is key. I’m not really into busy patterns and much prefer soft palettes and loose silhouettes – unless I’m going to a big event, then a loud colour is more than acceptable. These ensembles pictured above are city chic, office ready and a bit of me. I wish these items were in my wardrobe, right now, please and thank you.

 FYODOR GOLAN

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Fyodor Podgorny & Golan Frydman come from a fine arts background. Their SS16 collection is bold and beautiful, experimenting with geometrical silhouettes and sportswear aesthetics creating striking modern womenswear.

I love this collection, it’s so playful and unapologetic. The collaboration of fabrics, loud prints and manipulated 3D structures brings the clothes to life and epitomises the crossover from adolescence to adulthood. Described perfectly in the LFW website’s bio as ‘seductive, fragile and fearless’.